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Ideal armor thickness for a somewhat independent ship

#8
I'd swap the [gap] and [HA] in that armor layout at the very least, so it looks like:

(outside) [metal] [HA] [gap] [metal] (inside)

This will make the outside layer of metal much tougher, is still 4 blocks thick, and will save you repair costs in the long run.

I would highly recommend another layer of metal outside, especially on a hull that large.

(outside) [metal] [metal] [HA] [gap] [metal]


I wouldn't use Penetration Depth fused shells unless you're making a giant (800m/s or faster) railgun. And I'd recommend against the super-railgun. My modest capital ship actually has a pretty beefy railgun on it, kept entirely for my amusement; occasionally it will one-shot some weaker enemy. It's quite a rare event, however. Swapping the railgun out for another standard (rail assist only) turret would be more effective against stronger foes.

Shields and armor-stacking are why penetration depth shells generally suck. Pen-depth shells need high velocity to get high kinetic damage and AP in order to actually penetrate the stacked armor. The high velocity means shields stop everything. If you can reliably and quickly take shields down, it might be effective. But that would be a very high cost in disruptor conduit rounds just to make one railgun work. It's not worth the effort.

Try an inertial-fused 180deg. frag or a squash head+HA combo (HESH) for your main guns. Mixing in an occasional smoke warhead helps get through LAMS. 4m is a good shell length for reasonable main guns.
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RE: Ideal armor thickness for a somewhat independent ship - by Pastor of Muppets - 2019-01-12, 05:55 PM

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